The 'skinification' of hair: the new haircare routine

Once upon a time, there were two hair categories, shampoo and conditioner. Now, that's just the start. As hair products and treatments evolve, so do their methods of application. It's no longer "wash and go"; instead, we're offered high- tech serums, masks, infusions and treatments that offer cleansing, exfoliation, and radiance- boosting properties – terms we're probably more familiar with when it comes to our faces.

But we're also taking our hair more seriously. We have concerns, and we want them treated. Complaints of dry/itchy scalp is up 310 per cent in recent times, we're noticing more sensitivity to products, we want our hair to perform better, but we expose it to rough elements, pollution, overwashing, heat styling, backcombing and the challenges of frequent, sweaty gym sessions. The result? Sad, limp, underperforming hair.

And so, we call on the professionals for remedies, where their expertise is king – 55 per cent of women believe in their stylists' experience and recommendations. Forget what you see on Instagram – hairstylists are the real influencers. We look to them for real solutions and expect uncompromising results.

Hence, the upsurge of intensively-active, in-salon treatments, presented as therapies, which in a way they are, because they promote wellbeing, and give us (and our hair) that "time out" to repair. The new generation of hair rituals, such as Kérastase Fusio, are mindful experiences performed in ambient surroundings, and often combined with an indulgent head massage. 1 Also available in salon, or for home use, is the new Redken All Soft Sheet Mask, a foil cap you apply to hair after cleansing, just as you would a sheet mask to the face. A first in its category, it surges moisture into hair, taking down static and environmental "puff", and replacing it with smooth, sleek locks. For home use, Shu Uemura Art of Hair Essence Absolue Overnight Serum is a sleep mask that rebuilds dry, frazzled hair while you rest.

FAST BEAUTY

Because you only get one chance to make a first impression, echoes the instant gratification, always-on, all-or-nothing society we're living in; fast beauty is the antithesis to natural beauty. We want instant results, and everything at once; that means express services, multiple services at once, lunchtime makeovers, single-hit hi-tech treatments – we no longer have time for top-ups and redoux.

In terms of product selection, anything with "...and go" is our hero – the winners are products we can use on the run, but ones that deliver on promise or exceed expectations first time round. Ones that will tick several boxes, that don't need "management" or multi-step faffing. The make-or-break
purchase question is "can I fit this into my life?" – it's an impulse reflex, so the answer has to be a very loud yes.

Here's where time is of the essence, but there's zero tolerance for mediocracy. We want products to work faster and to do more. In salons, that's the introduction of express highlights, a 30-minute service pioneered by Kérastase, where up to seven sections of hair can be processed, and the final result styled in the time it might take to wait for Deliveroo.

Home products need to step up to the mark, such as Redken's Clean Maniac Micellar Clean- Touch Shampoo and Conditioner, which will remove dirt, build-up, residue and the most stubborn of styling products in just one wash. Styling products have to be great all-rounders; like Pureology's 21 Essential Benefits, or Redken's One United, which boasts legitimately about being a 1-in-23 multi-tasker. And they need to deliver on promise, like Alfaparf's Semi Di Lino Illuminating Shine Lotion.

NATURALITY

The niche of "all-natural" products has become the norm. And while the sourcing and blending of natural ingredients in haircare was always there, the new millennium has seen a steep rise in harnessing their efficacy. Now, natural products can actually perform.

These days, we can use science to harness the benefits of naturals, so we're swapping them in, where once chemicals or artificial ingredients would have been used; for example, harnessing the moisturising properties of glycerin, rather than a chemical compound. Natural in-salon hair colour now packs a punch. Try Botanea, a 100 per cent herbal, vegan, sustainably sourced colourant that offers a far wider spectrum of shades, from blondes to dark.

We're obsessed with diet, with "eating clean", and this is now moving to our skin and hair... just as we're aware of what we're putting in our bodies, we now pay heed to what's going on them. Avocado oil, aloe vera, olive oil, argan oil and coconut oil can all now be readily found in our products.

Even the language used around our beauty rituals, products and treatments has "foodie"and nutritional connotations: shots, blends, vegan... gluten- free! And while the latter is comical (who cares about gluten when outside of the digestive tract?), it firmly and proudly states an intention.

Women are unsure of labels, but we now know we don't want excesses of parabens, sulphates and silicone, especially when there are kinder alternatives. We want short labels on the back of our bottles, comprising of more natural ingredients, because we now appreciate and understand what they can bring to beauty. As a brand, Pureology has been championing the "no sulphates/carcinogens" category since its inception in 2001. Their stronghold in the market continues as the brand brings all-natural, vegan styling products to market this summer.

We are also beginning to notice, and appreciate,environmentally-friendly packaging. It matters. So, whether that's Kevin Murphy, whose purposeful packaging is "building block" style to maximise available space in shipping from Australia, or Aveda, who've always had recycling at the heart of their brand DNA, we care that they care, and we're listening with our wallets; expect a rise of eight per cent per annum for the next two years in the naturals category, while the words "vegan hair" have seen a rise of 18 per cent in online searches in the past five years.

7 changes to make to your skin and hair care routine this spring

As temperatures rise and as we reemerge from the cocoon of cozy blankets, bulky sweaters and flannel pajamas, it's time to start thinking about what steps to take to prepare for warmer weather.

Naturally, we reach for lighter clothing and make solid plans to bask in the sun, but something often overlooked is how we approach our skin care regimen and general beauty routine. While a complete overhaul isn't necessary, a few adjustments will help you feel and look better once spring has sprung, not to mention keep your skin and hair healthy. Follow these expert guidelines on cleaning up your beauty routine and swapping out some of your products now that warmer weather is on the horizon.

Spring Clean Your Beauty Stash

Spring cleaning doesn't only refer to combing through the junk in your closet or garage. Your beauty stash also requires a good purge.

Discard products that are over six to nine months old since they can have bacteria build-up and ingredients can expire.

Discard products that are over six to nine months old since they can have bacteria build-up and ingredients can expire.

"I look at season changes as the time to do a 'spring cleaning' and a 'switch-up' for my skin care regimen," said Dr. Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, a board-certified dermatologist based in NYC. "Essentially for season changes, I teach my patients to look over their skin care products — including topicals, make-up brushes and cleaning brushes — and clean out. I recommend discarding any products that are over six to nine months old since old products can have bacteria build-up and ingredients can expire and are no longer active."

She added that it's also a good time to reassess your skin type and consider what your regimen might need added or removed. Determine if you're dealing with oily, dry, dull, irritated or acne-prone skin and opt for products that cater to your specific needs.

Exfoliate More often

"As we come out of winter, our skin is still a little on the dry and dehydrated side, making our pores look enlarged and our tone a little dull and red from the chilly temperatures and lack of humidity," said Jenny Patinkin, a beauty expert and author. "As the weather warms up [and activity increases], our metabolism, circulation and oil production all get back into gear which will instantly brighten the complexion, but this is also a great time of year to exfoliate."

Exfoliation expedites the process of sloughing off old skin cells so that new ones can emerge, explained Patinkin. For your body, a gentle physical exfoliator made with sugar, salt or finely-ground plant material can be used. For the more delicate skin on your face, consider a mild chemical exfoliator with AHA.

Dr. Levin adds, "In the winter the skin gets more dry and sensitive so usually exfoliating once to twice weekly is sufficient, but in the spring, exfoliation can be increased to twice to three times weekly in order to remove and turn over dead skin cells. This also improves the penetration of active ingredients."

Switch to a Lightweight Moisturizer

"Look at dialing back on the thickness and richness of the moisturizing products you were using in winter," notes Patinkin. "You can do the same with makeup, stepping down from medium or full coverage to a lighter BB Cream, tinted moisturizer or even just a tinted SPF."

So instead of reaching for facial creams made with nut butters or heavy oils, opt for water gel moisturizers or dry oils like camellia or rosehip. For the rest of your body, switch from a heavy cream to a lotion or gel, as well.

Add Eye Cream to your regimen

Allergies can worsen in the spring, resulting in dark circles, swelling, inflammation and redness under the eye. When this happens, under eye bags look worse and wrinkles become more noticeable, explained Dr. Levin.

"I recommend that my patients look for an eye cream that focuses on hydration and skin brightening. One of my favorite drugstore eye creams in Cetaphil Hydrating Eye Gel since it is chock full of hyaluronic acid, which delivers hydration for 24 hours, as well as brightening ingredients such as licorice and grape extract and a pro-vitamin complex," she said.

Other eye cream ingredients to look for include caffeine to decreases puffiness, aloe to soothe and hydrate, and vitamin C to reduce discoloration.

Reassess Your Haircare Routine

The primary hair changes people experience from winter to spring include a more oily scalp, a decrease in volume due to higher temperatures, and lackluster color due to sun exposure, notes celebrity hair stylist, Kendall Dorsey.

"After the dry winter season transitions into spring, restoring your hair's natural luster and moisture is key," he says. "If you don't already, use a clarifying shampoo once a month to cleanse your scalp and to remove build up."

Dorsey also says to consider co-washing (which means skipping shampoo and only using conditioner) or using a deep conditioner treatment once a week to help lock in moisture. To address both volume loss and an oily scalp, use a dry shampoo at the roots. To prevent dull color, Dorsey suggests using dry shampoos and hair serums formulated with SPF to protect your strands. Hats are also a good call.

Finally, when hopping into a chlorinated pool, get your hair wet before diving in to prevent that weird green tinge. Doing so makes it more difficult for the chlorine to penetrate the hair shaft. Washing immediately afterward also helps.

Treat Yourself to a Spring-Appropriate Facial

A visit to the spa during the seasonal shift isn't just a way to pamper yourself. Patinkin said it's also a great time of year for pick-me-up services that refine skin texture or boost collagen production. Such treatments include micro-needling, derma-planing or microdermabrasion.

On that note, there are some services you should skip. "Treatments that address discoloration and sun damage like lasers, peels and pulsed lights are better done in the winter or fall after the frequency of sun exposure has diminished," Patinkin notes.

Get Religious About SPF

The importance of sunscreen can't be reiterated enough. It's one of the easiest ways you can prevent damage and keep your skin healthy throughout the year. With an increased exposure to sun in the summer, though, it becomes even more important to be diligent about applying sunscreen. Dr. Levin and Patinkin both agree that daily application of SPF to your face and body should be your top priority when it comes to skincare concerns as we enter sunnier days.

Fearless Curls: For Some Latinas, Natural Hair Is A Statement Of Identity

I have a very complicated relationship with my hair. I straightened it from adolescence into my early 30s, until very recently when I made a commitment to go back to my natural curls.

Beauty magazines have declared curly hair as the trend everyone will be wearing in 2018, but this didn't spark my decision to go natural. For some Latinas and other women of color, wearing their natural curly hair is not about following a trend. It's a statement of identity — and often a journey of unlearning fraught messaging that characterized curly hair as an undesirable marker of non-assimilation.

I know the old saying about curly-haired women wanting straight hair and vice versa. But this story is not about that. This is about hair as an identifier of ethnicity and a tool that women of color manipulate to make themselves more approachable in a world filled with biases. Our hair is not just about ourselves, but how it makes others around us feel.

"When I teach, I like always to provide some kind of cultural framework so that we don't have this thinking that we're talking about hair as this biological thing that grows out of our heads and has no meaning," Marika Preziuso, a literature professor at the Massachusetts College of Art and Design, recently told me. "What makes hair acceptable and unacceptable is what kind of connotation a specific society gives to specific textures and types of hair."

Preziuso says over and over again in Latina literature, women write about navigating a world with curly hair — a trait that's been historically framed as less desirable in mass culture.

"I'm very interested in not just a celebration of natural style but also an admission of how many challenges [come] with self-acceptance for these particular women coming from these traditions. It's really hard, especially when someone is the product of centuries of historic traumas, to feel empowered overnight."

I want to make one thing really clear, here: I'm not Afro-Latina. My hair is very curly, but it doesn't have the texture of a black woman's natural hair. I'm not equating my experience to that of a black woman with natural hair. The politics and histories are different. Though all women of color in the U.S. must contend with dominant Euro-centric beauty ideals, black women's hair has been under attack and in many ways, still is. Unlike some black girls, I never feared being suspended from school because of my natural hair.

As a young girl, I understood my curly hair deviated from the conventional beauty standards and that it marked me as more ethnic. So much so, that I began to straighten my hair with an actual clothes iron when I was 12. I wasn't alone.

"All you could see was a steam rising, I swear I was burning my poor hair," Boston dancer Ana Masacote recently said to me, describing her own experiments with straightening her very curly hair with a clothes iron as a young girl. Like so many other Latinas from a working class immigrant family, she began straightening her hair or pulling it back in middle school. That's when she was bused to a white, wealthy school. She intuitively grasped hair was also a symbol of class.

"You start seeing the disparity, you start seeing how different your socio-economic status is and that starts making you compare yourself to your peers and start to wonder ... how you can measure up," she said.

Of course, women like Masacote and me were influenced by the lack of Latinas in the media, but we didn't hate ourselves. We just wanted to assimilate enough to navigate the world more easily.

Dance changed everything for Masacote. As she taught a salsa class for her Masacote Dance Company, on a recent afternoon, her curls cascaded down her face. She tells me dance showed her how to escape the feeling of being caged into her body, to feel at ease in it and her hair. "It's really just being able to say that this is me. This is my culture. I'm Mexican. I'm Chicana. And I'm not going to try to portray something that I'm not to make you feel more comfortable."

So why do I feel an urgency to go back to curly now? Well, I'm a mom to a toddler. How can my son love his curly hair if his mom doesn't? And also, Boston. I moved here from New York City last summer, and before that I grew up and lived in Texas. But I've never felt browner, more Latina than how I feel in Boston. Maybe it's my affluent neighborhood where I hear different languages, but see a narrow range of skin tones, and where I've been mistaken for my son's caretaker when we speak Spanish at the park. Boston's made me realize just how noticeably Latina I am and I want to fully embrace that — even through my hair.

Recently, I stopped by Shan Hair, a salon in Brookline that specializes in curly hair. My stylist Antonella gave me an amazing haircut, called a DevaCurl cut, in which she cuts my dry curls in the shape of my head. After a lifetime of straightening it, Antonella is going to show me how to nurture my curls back to health.

"I'm going to teach you how to take care of your curls and also how to cleanse them, how to hydrate them, and how to style the curls, and then you can love your curly hair, right?"

Right. It's time to love it and live with it, just like my identity.