Sunday, December 4, 2016

Here's Why Everyone's Talking About Australian Top Model Duckie Thot's Instagram Post About Natural Hair


South Sudanese model Duckie Thot, who was formerly a contestant on Australia's Next Top Model, recently wrote a candid Instagram post about what it's like to deal with her natural hair in the fashion industry. Her honesty has since garnered the post over 17,000 likes and 1,600 comments, because it confronts the fashion industry's lack of diversity.

In the post, Duckie told the story of how the Australian brand Dinosaur Designs asked her to wear her natural hair for a shoot. She was apprehensive about it at first. "I've never really had a good experience with my natural hair and modeling in Australia before," Duckie wrote. "I remember on top model on one of the episodes I had to cornrow my own hair. I was extremely upset and embarrassed that they 'didn't know how' to cornrow my natural hair when at the end of the day that's their job."

She then explained that the Top Model experience made her emotional. She was afraid of being eliminated from the show simply because the hairstylists didn't know how to work with her afro-textured tresses.

Last weekend, Winner Harlow — Canadian model, former America's Next Top Model contestant, and Lemonade fixture — showed off her short natural curls in an Instagram post. Winnie reportedly shared on Snapchat that she was worried about her hair. But she also decided it was OK to drag Duckie down by posting one of Duckie's Dinosaur Designs campaign shots (more of which you can see below) and captioning it with, "LMFAO! WHAT ARE THOOOOOSEEEEE cauliflower ass head."

Duckie clapped back in the classiest way ever. "It's not fun being bullied for something you can't control and to have a top model woman of color who I thought encouraged acceptance and self love call me out for rocking my natural hair, isn't cool at all," she wrote in her post.

"I know what it feels like to be forced to do a lot of things with your hair that you’re uncomfortable with. As a black woman in the industry and as a black woman period, it’s hard to deal with your hair," she said. "Not a lot of people know how to deal with your hair. So please understand, from deep in my heart, I apologize if I hurt anyone’s feelings. I am human, I do crack jokes with my friends and family.”

Duckie's Instagram post doesn't even cover the half of what she's faced in the fashion industry. In a recent interview with Teen Vogue, Thot opened up even more about feeling inferior during her time on Australia's Next Top Model because of the deep color of her skin and the texture of her hair.

According to Duckie, the problem stems from society's Eurocentric standard of beauty. "Being a black woman, we haven't really been taught how to take care of our natural hair — we've only been taught how to hide it," Thot told Teen Vogue. "I think hair companies, the media, hairstylists, and the industry itself are to blame. They haven't made the same efforts to ensure black women are looked after in their most natural form. ... I think [the industry] should really take ownership and start to invest into us."

Unfortunately, the problem isn't only with natural hair. Top models like Nykhor Paul and Victoria's Secret model Leomie Anderson have called out professional makeup artists for not carrying a wide range of foundation shades that cater to women with darker skin tones.

Duckie added to that point, telling Teen Vogue, "Like when the makeup artist pulls out their palette and they've got 20 different shades of foundation for a white girl, but only have four 'darker' shades," she said. "Then, I'm awkwardly sitting there thinking 'none of that matches my skin whatsoever.' It's those type of situations that [black models] are put in and not catered to. ... By constantly challenging and pushing at [these discrepancies] I hope we will eventually make a difference."

Through it all, Duckie has learned the most important thing is self-love. "Since I started modeling, I've been molded by absolutely everybody in every corner," she said to Teen Vogue. "People have always told me what to do, what I should look like, what hair I should have — all these sorts of things. And, I listened to these comments for a very long time."

It's those very experiences that have kept her grounded in the belief that she is a representation for girls who look like her. "When I started listening to my own voice, that's when things really started picking up for me," she explained to Teen Vogue. "That for me has been the biggest change in my whole career — listening to myself, what I feel, and what I know. Until you find your own groove, you're going to be confused. I definitely recommend finding yourself before you dive into something. Really being sure of what you represent and being confident in that. Know that you're a voice for hundreds or thousands of girls out there."

Saturday, November 5, 2016

How to keep grey hair at bay between salon visits


I've had grey hair for a while now. It began around the temples when I was young enough to stay in denial about it and took off in earnest after I turned 30. Now, because I was born with the shade of hair that, if it were a dye in a box, might be named "Weak Espresso" or "Middling Goth", I need the salon every six weeks.

I can stretch that to eight if I have to, but by then I've crossed over into "nude pottery model" territory, a mere strand or two away from donning a cheese-cloth kaftan, grabbing a handful of crystals and calling it a day.

But it's not just the poor grey ponies who must spend and suffer; anyone who enjoys blonde highlights knows this story. People like us are the reason hairdressers are now called "studios" and "salons" and even "bars."

The procedure to get the particular shade or coverage you want takes around three hours – minimum. It's fun but it's a chore, kind of like dating before the internet.

And this is precisely why hair salons now resemble clubs. You've got booze, you've got loud, ambient music, you've got mild flirting, ("OMG, this cut looks gorgeous on you, babes!") and at the end of it all, you've got women and men staggering out into the street, lighter of pocket, and dizzy from the experience.

Every six weeks, the same dance. Well, until very recently. In this, the dawn of the age of flying cars and personal gyms, comes a slew of alternatives.

Starting with micro-foiling. Instead of using the old brush, this method involves real human hands and a much more subtle approach. It's quick, it's low-maintenance and available right now in Sydney's very hip Esstudio Galleria.

But! Best of all this method means that your colour can be stretched up to 12 weeks. If you don't have time for the salon, there's always Evo's Fabuloso colour enhancing conditioner, available in six different shades to enhance and revive your colour.

If you're super time-poor you could try the old Root Concealer trick. I do this all the time and nobody is the wiser. You just spray it on like you would dry shampoo and it coats your hair for the day. But, just like good skin doesn't begin with creams, but with what you put in your body, good, lasting hair colour is dependent on your shampoo.

I know this because – real talk – I used to use anti-dandruff shampoo and conditioner back when I was a naive foal of a person and then I'd wonder why my hair, though soft as a puppy's ear, was losing its colour the very next week after having it done. It's about sulphates, guys. I don't want to sound like an activated almond conspiracy theorist but sulphates are bad for your hair.

Again, I'm going to recommend Evo to you because their Ritual Salvation shampoo and conditioner is free of all that nasty petro-chemical stuff and it smells divine and their packaging is heavily reliant on witty words as opposed to oily promises involving air-brushed models with CGI hair. Where's the fun in that?

Monday, October 24, 2016

How to style your hair like Harley Quinn for Halloween


Looking for inspiration for Halloween, but don’t want to invest a lot of money or time? It’s all in the hair. We asked Seattle stylist Joshua Browne of Fix Salon in Ravenna to show us three quick and easy hairdos for Halloween that anyone can re-create with a minimum of special skills or tools.

1. Among the most popular characters for Halloween this year is Harley Quinn, the Batman supervillain from “Suicide Squad.”

To fashion the multicolored ponytails that Browne did on our features producer Shirley Qiu, 23, you’ll need two strips of attachable hair — called wefts — that are available in any beauty supply store. They can be any color that contrasts with your own hair and, for this look, should be heat resistant or “safe to curl,” Browne said.

For Shirley, who has black hair, Browne chose a pink weft and a purple one. You will also need strong hair elastics, some French pins, which are more flexible than bobby pins, and six scrunchies.

Browne started by parting Qiu’s hair carefully down the center front and back as if to make two side ponytails. He then took a small section from the center of each side and put an elastic around it tightly.

“You want this to be a strong rubber band because you’ll use it to anchor the French pins,” he said.

He then carefully wrapped one of the colored wefts around that section of hair, weaving the French pins through the weft and anchoring them under the elastic.

After that he gathered the rest of the hair on each side around the inner pony tail, put another strong rubber band around it and then put on three scrunchies on each side.

Before taking a curling iron to the ponytails, he sprayed each section of hair thoroughly with a Redken heat-protection product.

“We’re really emphasizing that now,” he said. “Just as you’d never put your bare hands in a hot oven, you should never take a hot tool to your hair without protection.”

Browne separated each of Qiu’s ponytails into three sections, carefully rolled them around a curling iron and let them fall into ringlets, which he sprayed with a strong- hold hair spray.

“Women are also embracing superheroes. They’re totally trending this year,” Browne said.

2. For his next style, which could complement a superhero-inspired look or a period costume such as one from the set of “Game of Thrones” or “Downton Abbey,” all you need is a handful of tiny elastics. They can be any color you want.
If your hair is on the thin side, you can do what salon owner Mandy McCullough did to help prep 24-year-old Paige Zielinski, another stylist at the salon. She used a tiny crimping iron throughout Zielinski’s hair.

“It adds so much volume,” said McCullough at the styling session on Tuesday evening.

What you will be doing, basically, is making a series of ponytails down the center of your head from front to back.

Once you get the first ponytail finished, you will gather up the next section of hair below it. Divide the ponytail that’s in front into two pieces, bring the lower section of hair up through the divided portion, then bring the two pieces of the first ponytail back together below, gather it into a ponytail with a small section of new hair, add a tight elastic and repeat, working your way down the back of the head.

Keep going until the hairdo, which he calls a Faux French Braid, is as long as desired.

3. For a quick and easy look for men, Browne demonstrated the “emoji guy” look on himself.
Wet the hair, make an extreme side part, comb it down flat and wear a blue shirt.

“The great thing about the emoji guy or girl is that it can be any race and every hair color,” he said. “And it’s so, so easy.”

Sunday, September 18, 2016

How To Protect Holiday Hair In The Heat


It’s not just your skin you need to protect from the sun; UV rays have the power to do plenty of damage to your locks – from dryness to fading your summer blonde. You may not be able to feel it, but your hair burns in the sun just like skin, while UV rays also weaken your hair’s protein structure by making the shaft drier, brittle and more liable to breakage.

The amount of damage depends how much you expose your hair to the sun, the current condition of your locks and how much swimming you do – as chlorine and salt water can intensify the sun’s harmful effects.

Those with hair that is already damaged or processed will need to be more mindful, as this type of hair will be more vulnerable to sun damage. Also those with longer tresses should be more aware, as the longer the hair, the older and therefore weaker it is. Here, we run through our top tips on how to handle your holiday hair.

Pre-holiday fix

Before you head off for sunnier climes, schedule a trim before you go away and another for when you return to remove any damaged ends. Split ends interlock easily, increasing the likelihood of hair tangling and breaking. Any damage that might have been done during your break will be quickly dealt with, with a trim on your return. However, if you manage to protect your hair properly while away, the second appointment won’t be necessary.

Protect while on holiday

Apply a water-resistant UV filter like like Sachajuan Hair In The Sun & Hair After The Sun in order to help prevent damage. Just massage the sun cream into hair before hitting the beach to give UV protection that even withstands water. At the end of the day, you can either leave in or rinse out the aftersun treatment to restore moisture and shine. Some change – albeit minimal – is inevitable so if you want to keep locks safe, consider staying in the shade or wearing a wide-brimmed hat.

Repair post-holiday

Use a hydrating hair mask like Paul Mitchell After-Sun Replenishing Masque during and also after your summer holiday, as the combination of UV exposure and swimming can weaken the hair’s protein structure, making strands less elastic and manageable and easily broken. A nourishing mask will tackle any dryness and prevent colour fading. Relax in the evening with the masque on your hair, to combat the effects of sun, seawater and chlorine. The Paul Mitchell mask also has a UV filter which will help to protect hair the next day, too.

Once you return home, keep up the treatments twice a week, using a pre-shampoo conditioning treatment for 20 minutes in order to restore hair health to lock in moisture.

Sunday, August 21, 2016

Gwen Stefani’s Haircare Routine Is Insane

EVER since she burst to fame 20 years ago with the era-defining hits Just A Girl and Don’t Speak, No Doubt frontwoman Gwen Stefani has been known for her immaculate, platinum-blonde hair.

For two decades now we’ve barely seen a peroxided hair out of place from the stunning singer. Now, Gwen’s own personal hairstylist, Danilo, has revealed exactly how much work goes into creating and maintaining that perfect look, each and every day.


“The truth is Gwen’s hair has a career too. It has to entertain, it has to perform,” he tells E! News in a new interview, divulging just how much attention is paid to her famous locks.

“When I was coming up, I remember I was told that Marilyn [Monroe] would have her hairstylist come touch up her roots every 10 days … with a Q-tip. And I remember thinking, ‘Wow that’s a lot!’” Danilo laughed.

But as it turns out, Danilo’s routine with Stefani is even more stringent: touch-ups every seven to eight days.


“I know roots are in right now … but I don’t like them on her. I want her to look seamless,” he said.
And for those wondering how Stefani, a natural brunette, keeps her hair healthy and nourished despite constant bleaching, Danilo’s about to let you in on a little secret.

“We haven’t used bleach since 2004. I developed a high-lift formula that achieves the same effect but saves the quality of her hair. I did a lot of research and really looked at places of origins for blonde hair colour like Germany and Scandinavia. I’ve spent years finding and testing new lines and technology.”

Danilo says he colours, washes and treats Stefani’s hair once a week, leaving her to sit with a pack of deep conditioner for around 45 minutes.


But his real secret weapon? The reason his famous client has been able to maintain shimmering platinum blonde hair for so many years without damaging the strands?

Danilo styles with conditioner. Yep, very flawless hairstyle you see Stefani rock has been created using “layers of conditioner”.

“She gets multiple types of deep conditioning every day,” he reveals, which cancels out the damage to Stefani’s hair caused by the constant colouring.

Now we just need someone else from Stefani’s inner circle to explain why she looks younger today than she did in 1996 ...